Simul-climbing

Two weeks ago, after finishing Egyptian, we had difficulty deciding what to do on Sunday, and I had threwn in the air a thought “how bout we do the 9-pitch multipitch twice, either Wangmeixinqing or Waigualiezao?” after Torsten talked about simul climbing on Saturday evening. Well, on Sunday morning I was telling the places where I could go, but didn’t have a strong urge to do anything in particular. So Torsten said “how bout we do the 9-pitcher Waigualiezao simul-climbing?”. I say “ok, why not!”.  He had done it this summer already simul-climbing.

(You can also read this story in Finnish here with some pictures).

The grade of the route was 5.10c (6a+), so nothing too hard. Plus, I had also climbed the route before already – or half of it. That time me and Fabian somehow managed to mix the two routes and ended up climbing 11 pitches, doing a variation of the two. It wasn’t anything hard so I figured simul-climbing would be fine. Only two pitches were 5.10c, one 5.10b, one 5.10a and the rest was about 5.9’s. 

Waigualiezao is the one in blue.

When Torsten climbed the route before with Xiaohe, they did it “true simul-climbing” style; without a belay-device in between. This time, we didn’t do it the “true” way; we did tie 8-knots, but also a grigri to our harnesses. This way, if the other person was going too fast or slow, we could adjust the amount of slack in between in our ca. 15m rope. It also allowed us to belay the other person safely through difficult sections – we did it three times during the route. As it wasn’t a long ago, Torsten remembered the harder sections well. Torsten led the first three or four pitches, I led the next three or four (didn’t really pay attention as we just climbed as long as we didn’t have any draws left or had just a few and stopped at an anchor) and Torsten led the last bit. So we did 2 changes of the leader during the route; last time, Torsten and Xiaohe needed to stop only once as they had about 10 more quickdraws to use.  

The piece of rope we used.

I forgot to check from my Suunto t6d if the topo was correct about the route being 245 meters long – I remembered it when we descended to the road, where it showed 222 meters, so I think the topo was quite exact. It took us a minute or two over 2 hours to finish the route.

For me, simul-climbing was an awesome experience. I could feel my heart beating while climbing, focusing on where I put my feet, just enjoying climbing without the feeling of pressure of achieving something. I really, really enjoyed it until I broke off a handhold while leading, and fell (because I was clutching to it with my both hands). Until then, I wasn’t scared at all because the route was easy – after that, I became a bit paranoid. As at the point where I fell I was going first, it was ok. Had the second person fallen at an inconvenient place, the leader might have been hurt even quite badly (well, this is what made me paranoid after that as when I was going first right then it made me think about what “could” happen if the leader well just then when I was meters above the last clip and just clipping the next one – until then, I didn’t really think about it). But, as said, we had already belayed the other person through the more difficult sections just to be safe this wouldn’t happen. But now I started checking almost every hold I was touching and that is not a fun thing I enjoy doing while climbing...

Anyway, I would definitely do it again; but still with the safety of a grigri just to be sure.  

It is not fall yet...

Hard training took it’s toll, and for a couple of days I was lying on my sofa and trying to get rid off a nasty cold with a countless number of cups of hot water with ginger and garlic. And I thought it’s not flu season yet…!

However, before that I had a really nice weekend up in Baihe again – I headed up to the newly opened route with Ola, who managed to FA it last Sunday.

This is what I saw on the way to the long distance bus stop. Lice on duty...

I gave the route three goes on Saturday, and on Sunday, against my previous thoughts I thought what the heck, I might as well lead it. The falls are not too bad as it is overhanging, but a bit scary as there are blocks that come out of the wall and you might hit them if you’re unlucky. I gave it a go, however. First try… Not too bad, but a still bit insecure – and the clip sequence I had thought would work didn’t really work on lead right before the crux, so my clipping position was super hard and there went my energy for the first crux. Second go, quite good, but fell at the first crux. Low point from below the crux to the anchor though. Ola had already sent the route and climbed it once for trainings sake on top-rope, trying to rest as little as possible.

Third go… Should I do it? As it is very strenuous route, I didn’t think I’d have enough power to try it… but you can’t win unless you play, right?! So I gave it a go anyway, thinking that it is good for training if nothing else… To my surprise, it was my best try and even with a shorter rest than between the first and the second go. I managed to get through the first crux move, but it is not easy after that either – quite a few pumpy moves until you get to a good hold, and that’s were my power endurance gave in. Dammit! I was still quite glad as last weekend I thought it would take even a longer time until I can think of finishing the route. It is around 5.13a (7c+), and reminds me of another 7c+ route in Baihe I still haven’t finished – power endurance and not really my style. But soon, I hope…!!! Hopefully I can find someone to go there with me when I go to Baihe. Tomorrow I will head to Changzhi to an interesting competition… more about that later! (and no, this one is not the World Cup).

Trying some moves again after the first lead try... (Actually, this was more like posing for the picture and looking like I climb - there was actually no place for rest here). And it doesn’t really look overhanging from below…

But from another possible belay point where you can better dodge the falling stones… a little bit more.

But now, time for a new adventure to Changzhi. I've still got like 5 hours before I need to wake up to catch my flight, sponsored by CMA...

Back in Beijing, back in business

Arriving back to Beijing after one month’s holiday in Finland, what waited for me was pollution, of course – and my first jetlag ever. Funny things happen when you get older I guess. Also somehow I have a sore ankle after last night’s sleep!?

Today the weather in Beijing surprised me again. I was going to Ritan-park to do a rope-climbing session as I definitely need more power endurance in the coming months – but as I was grocery shopping in Jenny Lou’s nearby and ready to step my foot outside, it was pouring down rain. No sign of rain just some minutes before, and suddenly all the streets are flooding. So instead I waited for the rain to stop (it didn’t, but at least it wasn’t raining so hard anymore) and came home and started my blog – finally. I still do intend to go to O’le climbing to do my training, but I am gathering some motivation and strenght first – as it is an 8-9 km bikeride one-way and my buttocks are still hurting from yesterday’s bikeride. That’s what happens when you don’t bike for a month. In Ritan-park, the wall is outdoors, so the holds will be soaken wet. Besides, I think they close if it rains.

More to come, enjoy the ride.