Baihe’s 5.8 slab almost kicked my ass

After a couple of nights I gave up trying to jailbreak my iPhone myself (that I inherited from my cousin; thanks Ben!) as all the IPSW bundles I downloaded were wrong… and my internet connection is not the fastest… So I went to a Chinese IT-market ”Bainaohui” and got it fixed for 100 CNY. Probably got ripped off, but whatever, at least it works now! And I can tell you, it feels like I am a completely new person after using the cheapest models for years... Funny what technology can do to you!?

Climbing-wise, I have been kind of unmotivated this week. Or it comes and goes; like on Thursday I really wanted just to have a rest-day, but thanks to some prep-talk I did go to O’le anyway to do my training, before my poker games. Despite on being supertired on Wednesday, I felt strong and good. However, spending one month in Finland and not climbing anything I wanted to (not from lack of trying at least!), I have tried to focus on just enjoying climbing without the pressure to ”succeed”. I mean, after ticking some hard routes earlier this year here in China I felt the immense pressure when I went to Finland – and I think it is partly the pressure that didn’t let me climb anything hard (and also lack of power endurance). Or then I just don’t have the head for it.

I am kind of a ”vastarannan kiiski” in many ways, and when people assume or want me to do something I do exactly the opposite… Subconsciously even. It is quite the opposite when I am challenged into something, or I challenge myself into something – I give everything and a bit more. ”You can’t do this” are the childish words that work for me eheh. I have however decided to train harder… And be ready for new kinds of routes later this year, the kind that I am never been good at (more overhanging and power endurance stuff – as my friend Ola so nicely told me on Saturday ”You really suck on overhanging stuff!”). I know I will be stuck between a rock and a hard place many times but I am prepared for it.

On Saturday there was a competition at O’le – so in the hope of good prizes I went there instead of Baihe. The competition was more of a ”fun” kind, a difficulty competition (if you just got up the route you won a prize) and speed-climbing with ski boots and gloves on (women without gloves though as everyone competed in the same category). I won climbing shoes, after miraculously placing 3rd in the speed-climbing (after World Champ Olga Shalagina who’s training at our gym now, and a supertall Chinese friend of mine, Zhang Rui) – as those who know me I am not the fastest climber eheh, but apparently skiboots work for me ;). The number inside the balloon that I grabbed when finishing the difficulty route didn’t give me the nice down-jacket I’ve been drooling over though; I got a harness instead… What a disappointment!

After the competition I got a ride to Baihe with some people from the gym – when arriving to the crag after spending the night in Guolaosi, this is how they set up their camp for the day… A very common view when climbing with Chinese people. Luckily Torsten saved me from ”camping out” and I could start climbing.

There is still one 5.12b I have eyed at the Beginner, trying to save it for onsight… And I had thought that this is the day, screw it, I will try it anyway (as I know it is not my style – looks like you need a lot of power endurance and I don’t have it at the moment). And as I looked up, first I was delighted – the draws are up there already from the day before…. And looking further up…. The last third of the route was wet!!! ARGH!!!! Stupid waterfall that suddenly has grown… (The route is on the left of the waterfall, going diagonally from the left, following the crack and finishing around halfway the wet section. There is another pitch after that.).

So instead I climbed a few routes just to get some meters done (5.12b and 5.12d I have done before but couldn’t do a repeat on one go – not very surprising) and then we headed up to a new project Ola and Torsten bolted a couple of weeks ago. First pitch is a 5.8 slab…. And what a scary one! Torsten went first as I didn’t have ambition for 5.8 onsight… And oh my, Baihe 5.8 slabs… Following him with a backpack and clipstick (that he didn’t need after all), already on the first bolt after clipping out the draw I felt the urge to crab the bolt… Same happened on the second one, though I still resisted but only ’cos I was thinking it’s a 5.8… After fourth one, it was REALLY a 5.8 in my opinion, but before that… Hrphm. Or on how many 5.8’s do you a) need to smear (no proper footholds) and crimp to get to the next hold, or b) just stand on slab and step up without handholds?

The project we went to is the second pitch; an overhanging route seen in the picture below, with a hanging belay from where the overhanging section starts. I did all the moves on the first try (top-rope), but it is a really pumpy and power endurance route. Difficult to say how hard it is, but I guess somewhere around 5.13a. I don’t think I can finish it within the few remaining weekends I have here in Baihe, with my current power endurance… But at least it’s a good training route if nothing else.

Ps. See the blue sky?!?! So it is not a myth here in Beijing, either...